A Series of Inspired Follies: NAMIBIA

Our next stop on our tour of Namibia was Palmwag. We drove and drove and the landscape changed to mountains and red rocks. The rocks were interesting...they have rounded edges like they have been worn by moving water. A gentleman at the lodge told us that all of the sand between the rocks had blown west across the Atlantic. ; )

On the road to Palmwag

The towns we passed through along the way were actually on the map but they were very small in reality. Generally a group of less than 10 houses with lots of goats and a few cows grazing around.

Invariably there would be 1 or 2 old cars that had been left to rust. Frequently they would take the back half of the truck off to be pulled by a donkey and leave the front to slowly rust.

Then we arrived at our oasis literally in the middle of nowhere. And the sunsets were lovely!

The Palmwag Lodge

We spent 2 nights here and weren't quite sure what we would do with ourselves during the day so we signed up for a trip to visit a Himba tribe. The Himba are a semi-nomadic people who have kept with their traditional customs although with Namibia becoming a increasingly popular tourist spot that may change in a generation or two. Most are happy to have their photograph taken in exchange for money however it is recommended that you offer food instead. Our tour guide brought things like corn meal, tea, and sugar in exchange for our visit to the village. This exchange is more in line with their values of community cooperation instead of using money. They also quite enjoyed, even demanded, to see their photo on the camera screen. We really need to find a camera like the old Polaroids so a photo can be offered to them to keep.

The Himba are farmers/ranchers. They breed and care for herds of cows, goats and sheep. The cows are extremely important and revered. They do grow some crops as well, like maize, but the climate is very hot and dry making farming and life in general difficult. We were there during the rainy season and it was very dry even then. Men can have several wives. The husband had died in the village we visited so the head wife was in charge of the village. The men take care of the herds and the women farm and take care of the children. The women and small children still dress traditionally in cow hide skirts and lots of metal and beaded jewelry. Every few days they apply a fragrant mixture of ocher, butter and herbs to their bodies and hair. It gives them a burnt orange coloring and is a natural sunscreen and insect repellent. They do this instead of bathing, which seems quite practical in a region where water is scarce. The teenage boys at the village were dressed in western clothing. When they turn about 14 part of the right of passage involves getting you bottom 2 teeth knocked out, everyone had the same smile.

It was a bit awkward visiting the village. Kind of like showing up at a strangers house not able to speak their language and asking to be shown around. But along with our guide came a man whose tribal language was close enough to Himba that he could communicate with them. So before we exited the car he went to ask permission for us to visit the village. He also was able to translate our questions and their answers for us. It was truly an honor to visit the village and a very unique experience!

In addition to being a cultural experience this part of the trip also helped with another objective. Steve was here in search of his bachelor party. We are happy to say that yes he did get to see topless girls.

The women were all very proud and took a lot of care with their appearance.
I'm not sure what they thought of me, dressed like a man in trousers, boots, and a hat.

This lady could not wear traditional dress because she had attended 2 years of primary school.

A Himba House

One of the teenage boys in the village.

The ladies had jewelry for sale for a little "going to town money".

After visiting the Himba village we drove north to Sesfontein. It was established as a military outpost in 1896 to control the spread of cattle disease, arms smuggling and poaching. Later it was turned over to the local police. But now it has been restored to a beautiful lodge...with toilets! (A welcome site for me after being on the road all morning!)

Our lunch spot before heading back to Palmwag.

A Herero woman going to do her washing in the river. The Herero dress like Victorian-era German missionaries, complete with petticoats. They look lovely but must be boiling in the heat! (It was well above 90F when we were there.)